La Sirene

A self-proclaimed “comfy 25-seat BYOB” French cuisine restaurant, La Sirene is one of the few frills-free French restaurants left in the city. From well-mannered French waiters to the authentic taste of Chef Didier Pawlicki’s food, there is no sense of the superiority and haughtiness many New Yorkers associate with French cuisine. Without a liquor license, the restaurant does not charge for uncorking—a practice that is unheard of in a New York restaurant, let alone in one serving French cuisine.

The small restaurant is marked by its lovely atmosphere. But even as they pass by the well-lit windows, visitors might be more enticed by a wonderful display of delicious concoctions.

Looking closely at the menu will draw a chuckle or two—dishes are listed with their ingredients, along with Internet-lingo emoticons and nonstandard grammar. The Kassulet Toulousain de la Maison—a casserole of garlic duck confit, bacon, and pork sausage—is listed as “Yummy but Rich!! Was Created for Warriors to defend the City ! Don’t take it if you can’t bear it.” The candid, friendly menu—decorated in pink flowers—is convincing enough to encourage any diner to order the completely meat-free Tartelette de Chevre Frais, or the Goat Cheese Tart. For a slightly pricey $16.95, the perfectly warm tart—made with shallots, truffles, grapes, and 180 day-aged Swiss cheese—was a colorful canvas of tastes.

The composition of the dessert rivaled even the meat-heavy Filet Mignon in terms of complexity. In addition to a wonderful presentation, the tart came with a side salad and was rimmed with a bright red beet sauce that contrasted well with the rich goat cheese in the tart.

La Sirene was quite full during its late-dinner shift, half filled with young professionals and couples on dates, the other half with older patrons. Two birthday parties were ongoing. With a half-open style kitchen, the warm smells permeated through the restaurant, combining with its convivial atmosphere. For patrons willing to spend $50 on rich-tasting, no-drama French food, La Sirene is a standout.