Walking past the corner of 109th and Columbus Avenue, the smell of curry and cardamom seeds will draw the adventurous foodie into Shahi Biryani & Grill, a small Indian-Pakistani joint.
Customers can either eat in or take out, the latter being the best option at this flavorful local spot. Shahi does offer around eight tables with two or four seats, but there is absolutely no atmosphere.
When you walk in, there is a glass deli-like enclosure on the left, in which several metal trays of food are on display, and the tables on the right. On a Tuesday night at around 8, there were maybe one or two other people eating in, making for a very quiet cafeteria-like setting. Instead of being waited on, customers go up to the counter and point to whichever items in the glass enclosure they want.
There is a bit of a language barrier, so it’s important to speak simply and point forcefully—and come with cash.
The wealth of options on the menu are served casually on paper plates. Those who want a standard Indian dinner of naan and chicken tikka masala will find that here for only a few dollars. The naan, which comes as a large, puffy circle, is highly recommended. My dining companions and I were hard-pressed not to polish off the hot, pull-apart soft bread too quickly.
More adventurous eaters may be enamored with the goat curry, a hearty stew composed of tender chunks of goat meat and a thick, simmering sauce. Shahi makes this dish very well. The meat is not too chewy and the sauce has a nice balance of sweetness and spice. Shahi’s namesake dish, the biryani, can be made with goat, chicken, or vegetables. The chicken biryani arrived as a heaping plate of yellow rice sprinkled with herbs and spices and dotted with pieces of bone-in chicken. While the chicken was a little dry and under-seasoned, the rice was flat-out addictive. My fellow diners and I kept scooping it up until it was gone. Pairing it with curry or sauce from one of the other entrées would probably make for a tasty dish as well.
Vegetarians have plenty to choose from at Shahi. Vegetable biryani, chickpea stew, palak paneer—creamed spinach with chunks of white cheese—and mixed sauteed vegetables are available, among other choices. The mixed vegetables are a delicious way to get some fiber, with a melange of carrots, cauliflower, peas, and onions making for a light, fragrant side dish. When the Indian munchies strike, instead of gorging on cream-laden roti rolls, students should satisfy their cravings with the cheap, reliable fare at Shahi.
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