From Twyla Tharp to Marc Jacobs, SoHo’s reputation seems to shift with every block and year that passes. But amid the cast iron buildings south of Houston Street lies the unchanged Lombardi’s—New York’s first pizzeria.
Partially a tourist trap due to its Zagat rating as “The Best on Pizza on the Planet” and its historical repute, Lombardi’s offers the local charm of a quality neighborhood pizzeria all the same and is worth the trip for a bite of Manhattan culinary history.
Genero Lombardi opened Lombardi’s as a grocery store in 1897 and started selling pizza to workers on their lunch break. In 1905, it was the first New York eatery to be certified as a pizzeria, paving the way for the pizza craze that swept the island after World War II. Today, Lombardi’s sits on Spring Street, plastered with its famous Mona Lisa mural, across from the futuristic Rice to Riches pudding café (which is worth a trip for dessert if you’re not too full from the pizza).
The layout of the restaurant is like a maze because of recent building additions, but this also makes for a fairly intimate dining atmosphere. The environment is true to the Italian pizzeria cliché—its tables are covered with red-checkered tablecloths and an eclectic array of posters line its brick walls. The ambiance is low- key and pleasant, abuzz with the nice hum of fellow diners enjoying their pies, although it should be noted that the service isn’t particularly friendly.
The pizza, however, is the reason this restaurant has stood the test of time. The crust is the highlight—thin but with a doughy inside and flavored with that perfect hint of smoke. When this slightly charred thin-crust is topped with traditional tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil, and olive oil, traditional Columbia fare of Koronet and Famiglia don’t even compare.
Unfortunately, Lombardi’s discourages topping creativity as they charge up to $3.00 per topping, but even if you’re looking to spend minimal money, there are many options. The classic pie with just the basics is quite reasonably priced: a small goes for $15.50 and large costs $19.50.
The cobble-stoned streets of SoHo have gone through many transitions this century. Lombardi’s Pizza, however, remains a comforting constant, with the promise of fresh ingredients, historical charm, and local character. It’s well worth a Sunday afternoon lunch during a day of high-end (or window) shopping.
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